Video tutorial and pattern 

Pulsa AQUÍ para ir al patrón en español

Dimensions

Height — 9.5 cm 

Width — 7.5 cm

Materials

  • 3 mm crochet hook 
  • Yarn I used: 40% acrylic 60% cotton
  • Scissors
  • Wool needle
  • Button for the eye
  • Sewing thread
  • Felt (optional) 
  • Craft glue (optional)   
    🔨 You can see the materials I use to make my amigurumis HERE 

Stitches used are:

  • Single crochet (sc)
  • Slip stitch (sl st)
  • Decrease (dec)
  • Increase (inc)
  • Magic ring

If you don't know how to make any of these stitches, I'll leave you the link where you can see some short video tutorials.

  • If you are left-handed, click here to go to the playlist.
  • If you are right-handed, click here to go to the playlist.
*Soon these videos will be with English subtitles

Video tutorial

Here you have access to the video tutorial whether you are left-handed or right-handed, below you have the pattern. 

You must click on the settings to activate the subtitles.


Pattern

If you want to share this pattern, please, please pass on the link to this page.


Let's start! 

NOTE: In this project we are going to work closing the loops.

HEAD

Row 1: 6 sc in a magic ring After finishing, close the row making a slip stitch at the first stitch of the previous row.

Row 2: Make a chain to gain height and at the stitch where you made the slip stitch, pass the hook to start this row 2. Make 6 increases (12p). After finishing, close the row making a slip stitch at the first stitch of the previous row.

Row 3: Make chain to gain height. Continue with 1 sc, 1 increase (18p). After finishing close the row making a slip stitch.

Row 4: Make the chain to gain height. Start with 1 sc, 1 inc and continue with the following sequence in parentheses (2 sc - 1 inc x 5). Finish with 1 sc in the last stitch and 1 slip stitch to close the row. (24)

Row 5: Make chain to gain height. Continue with 3 sc, 1 inc throughout the entire row. Close the round with a slip stitch. (30)

Row 6: Make chain to gain height. Continue with 2 sc, 1 inc, and before continue, make what is in parentheses (4 sc - 1 inc x 5), finish with 2 sc and a slip stitch to close the row. (36p)

Row 7: Make chain to gain height. We work in the back loops of the stitches and make 36 sc Finish with a slip stitch to close the round by going through both loops of the stitch.

Row 8 to 14: Make chain to gain height. Take the entire stitch and make 36 sc in each round. Close and start each round as we have done so far.

Row 15: Make chain to gain height. We work in the back loops of the stitches. Make 4 sc and 1 dec, (the decreases are also made by taking the back loops of the stitches). Finish with a slip stitch to close the round by going trhough both loops of the stitch. (30p)

Row 16: Make chain to gain height. Take the entire stitch. Make 3 sc and 1 dec, (the decreases are made normal, taking the front loop of the stitch). (24p)

Row 17: Make chain to gain height. Make 2 sc and 1 dec. Finish with a slip stitch to close the round by going through both loops of the stitch. (18p)

Now we will start knitting the body.

Row 18: Make chain to gain height. Work through the front loop of the stitches. Make 1 sc, 1 inc, before continue, make what is in parentheses (2 sc - 1 inc x 5) and 1 sc. Finish with a slip stitch to close the round by going trhough both loops of the stitch. (24p)

Row 19: Make chain to gain height. Take the entire stitch. Continue with 3 sc, 1 inc Finish with 1 slip stitch to close the round. (30p)

Row 20: Make chain to gain height. We work in the back loops of the stitches and make 30 sc Finish with a slip stitch to close the round by going through both loops of the stitch. (30p)

Row 21 to 30: Make chain to gain height. Take the entire stitch and make 30 sc in each row. Close and start each round as we have done so far.

Row 31: Make 1 chain. We work in the back loops of the stitches and make 30 sc Finish with 1 slip stitch to close the round. (30p)

Let's fill in the head part before continue, don't fill too much or the top will be rounded.

Try to bring the filling to the sides. Avoid inserting large pieces of filler so that there are no bulging areas We will fill in the body a little further ahead.

Row 32: Take the entire stitch. Make 1 chain. Continue with 3 sc y 1 dec. Finish with 1 slip stitch to close the round. (24p)

Row 33: Make chain to gain height. Continue with 2 sc y 1 dec. Finish with 1 slip stitch to close the round. (18p)

Row 34: Make chain to gain height. 1 sc y 1 dec. Finish with 1 slip stitch to close the round. (12p)

Before closing completely, we finish filling try to bring the filling to the sides not to the head. The base has to be flat, if you see it starting to bulk up, don't fill more.

Mold a little with your fingers to place the filling, so the base is as flat as possible.

Row 35: Cut enough thread to close the remaining hole. With a wool needle pass the needle through the front of the 12 stitches. Stretch to close. Secure with 1 knot when finished and pass the needle through the body to cut the excess thread.

ARMS x2

Row 1: 5 sc in a magic ring. Close the row with 1 slip stitch as well as we have been doing

with the body.

Row 2: Make chain to gain height and 5 increases Finish with 1 slip stitch to close the round (10p)

Row 3: Make chain to gain height. We work in the back loops of the stitches, make 10 sc. When finished, we make a slip stitch to close the round by going through

both loops of the stitch.

Rows 4 to 9: Make a chain to gain height and 10 sc in each row. Take the entire stitch. Remember to close each row as we did until now.

Row 10: Make a chain to gain height and 5 sc.

Cut enough thread to sew and pull on the loop to extract the thread.

Fill a little so that the tip does not bulge, and with a wool needle, we will close the gap to prevent the filling from coming out.

The last 5 sc that we knit will be the ones we use to sew to body, they stand out clearly because they protrude above the last 5 single crochet stitches of the previous round.


Pass the needle through the back loop of the stitch and in front, where the 5 single crochets are higher, pass the needle under the top stitches. This way, we close the gap and allow the 5 single crochets from the last round to continue protruding, so they can be sewn to the body later. Be careful that the needle is not visible on the other side.



LEGS x2

Row 1: 5 sc in a magic ring. We close the row with 1 slip stitch as well as we have been doing with the body.

Row 2: Make chain to gain height and 5 increases, Finish with 1 slip stitch to close the round (10p)

Row 3: Make chain to gain height. Make 1 sc, 1 inc and after finishing, make a slip stitch to close the row. (15p)

Row 4: Make chain to gain height. We work in the back loops of the stitches and make 15 sc, When finished, we make a slip stitch to close the round by going through both loops of the stitch.

Row 5 to 11: Make chain to gain height. Take the entire stitch. Make 15 sc and 1 slip stitch to close each row. Cut enough thread to sew and pull on the loop to extract the thread.

SEW THE LEGS

I recommend that you secure them before you start sewing. The "scar" of closing the turns I have located just below and the "scar" of the body I have put it behind.

Sew the leg onto the last row of stitches on the body.


Take the front part of the stitch from both the body and the leg..After sewing these two stitches, we move on to sewing the side.
To prevent the stitches from showing, you need to insert the needle through the same point where you brought it out in the previous stitch. I recommend watching the video tutorial from minute 25 if you don't have much experience sewing amigurumis, so you can sew the leg without the stitches showing.

Sew the entire leg, leaving a small gap for stuffing. It should be well-stuffed, but not to the point where the end becomes rounded.

Finish by sewing two stitches in the lower row of the body, as we did at the beginning. This will provide a stable base and prevent the body from tilting forward. Secure with 1 knot when finished and pass the needle through the body to cut the excess thread.

Sew the other leg in the same way. Leave a 1-stitch gap between both legs.

SEW THE ARMS

Place them with 2 pins to ensure them more or less in the center of the body.


We're going to sew as we did with the legs, taking the front part of the stitches from the arm. Tighten the first stitch to snugly fit the body, and pass the needle through the same point where you brought it out in the previous stitch to hide the stitches.If you're going to place the heart between the arms, you don't need to do the following steps; just secure it with a knot.

If you're not placing anything between the arms and don't want them to remain so open, after finishing sewing, pass the needle through the inside of the arm to approximately the middle, and make a stitch on the body so the arm will stay close. Secure with a knot at the end of the arm and cut off the excess yarn.
You can also use glue if you find it more convenient.

Hanging eye

To make the hanging eye, pass a long thread through the button and make a row of knots as long as you want the eye to hang (the knots don't need to be tight).


After making the knots, thread both strands through the needle and sew with a stitch on the head at the desired height, then secure with a knot. Pass the needle through the body to cut the excess strand.


I make the knot on the red thread closest to the body.

With black thread, finish by adding the mouth and any other details you'd like.


You can add a small heart made of felt if you're not making a doll that hugs a crocheted heart. To glue it to the body, I used white craft glue.


You can access the free tutorial for the heart that the doll holds by clicking HERE


If you enjoy my content and would like to support me, you can invite me for a coffee. Your contribution is greatly appreciated and helps me continue creating 🤗☕