Video tutorial and pattern 

Pulsa AQUÍ para ir al patrón en español

Dimensions

Height —  

Width — 

Materials

  • 3 mm crochet hook 
  • Yarn I used: 40% acrylic 60% cotton
  • Scissors
  • Wool needle
  • Sewing thread
  • Craft glue (optional)   
    🔨 You can see the materials I use to make my amigurumis HERE 

Stitches used are:

  • Single crochet (sc)
  • Slip stitch (sl st)
  • Increase (inc)
  • Magic ring

If you don't know how to make any of these stitches, I'll leave you the link where you can see some short video tutorials.

  • If you are left-handed, click here to go to the playlist.
  • If you are right-handed, click here to go to the playlist.
*Soon these videos will be with English subtitles

Video tutorial

Here you have access to the video tutorial whether you are left-handed or right-handed, below you have the pattern. 

You must click on the settings to activate the subtitles.


Pattern

If you want to share this pattern, please pass on the link to this page.


Let's start! 

Row 1: 6 sc in a magic ring

Row 2: 6 inc (12)

Row 3: 1 sc - 1 inc (18)

Row 4: 1 sc, 1 increase x 9 (27)

Row 5: 2 sc, 1 inc x 9 (36)

Row 6: 1 sc, 1 inc and continue with the following sequence in parentheses (2 sc, 1 inc x 11). When finish, make 1 sc (48)

Row 7: 3 sc, 1 inc x 12 (60)

Row 8: 2 sc, 1 inc and continue with the following sequence in parentheses (3 sc, 1 inc x 14). When finish make 1 sc (75)

Row 9: 2 sc, 1 inc and continue with the following sequence in parentheses (4 sc, 1 inc x 14). When finish make 2 sc (90)

Row 10: Start with 1 inc and continue with the following sequence in parentheses (5 sc, 1 inc x 14). When finish make 5 sc (105)

Make a slip stitch in the next stitch and cut enough thread to sew the circumference we just made.

How to sew

We will use wool needle. We will start from the top, picking up the front part of the stitches. Skip the first stitch that is close to our thread and start sewing on the second stitch. The stitch we skipped should end up right at the tip.

Pass the needle through the front of the stitches on this side of the moon that faces us.

If you don't turn the moon and sew like I do, on the back side, we pass the needle through the back of the stitches. Pull the stitches tight, so there are no gaps. Continue until you reach about halfway.

When we reach the halfway point, we'll place the string. Take the string we're going to use and determine the length we want the loop to extend for hanging.

Tie a knot to secure the loop; this knot will go on the outside of the moon. Tighten it well, and if the string you're using is made of a material that causes the knot to loosen, apply a bit of instant glue.

Add the decoration you want for your moon and secure it with another knot.

Cut the cord, leaving enough so it extends from the bottom end. Tie another knot 1 cm below the first one. This knot will be on the inside and will prevent the string from slipping out.

With the help of the crochet hook, we'll thread the cord through the bottom. Thread it through the center, not through the tip of the moon.

Remember that the last knot we made should be on the inside. Adjust the height and continue sewing a bit more before you start filling.

When there are about 3 cm left to close, fill by inserting small pieces and pushing them to the bottom tip so that it is well stuffed.

Continue sewing, and when you reach the cord (at the height where you want it secured), wrap it around and sew the stitch on the back side. Tighten this stitch well and take a couple more stitches before adding a bit more filling.

Finish by tying a knot and threading the needle through the body to cut the excess thread.

Place the decoration on the bottom and secure it with a knot to prevent it from coming loose. When you have finished with the decorations, cut the excess thread, leaving a little extra to fray the thread (if the thread you are using can be frayed, of course!).

Make the eyes

To make the eye, I use sewing thread. Cut enough thread to sew both eyes with the same thread. I double the thread in the needle and secure it with a knot at the end.

Use the magic circle as a reference so that both eyes are at the same height, for example, one row above the magic circle.

Insert the needle, for example, through the back side to start, but do not pull the thread all the way through; leave about 5 cm of the end thread sticking out. It is important to insert the needle through the gap of a stitch and not through a stitch or catching filaments. At the end of the process, secure this thread with a knot.

I leave this piece of thread sticking out
I leave this piece of thread sticking out
Where the thread comes out is where I will start to make the eye
Where the thread comes out is where I will start to make the eye

Now you need to make the length of the eye. You have to leave a gap of 2 stitches and find the next opening that is roughly at the same height as the start of our eye. When you find it, pass the needle through the row below.

To help a little, in the photo, I marked in red the line I followed as a reference to indicate the distance of two stitches and the height of the start of my eye. This imaginary line helps us locate the point that is at the same height. When you find the point that is two stitches away from the start of the eye and at the same height, pass the needle through a row below.

Now bring the needle out one row above our red reference line, but one stitch to the right (towards the right if you are stitching the same side as I am right now). Do not pull the thread too tight; it should not be taut.

Pass the needle again through the same point where the thread is and bring it out at the point that is one row above, vertically, that is, right at the point directly above. 

Now pass the needle again through the previous point (the one directly below) and bring it out one row below with 1 stitch of separation (in the image, 1 stitch to the left) to create the lower eyelashes. 

Pass the needle through the row above, vertically (above the thread), and bring it out in the inner row with 1 stitch of separation. 

Pass the needle through the row above again (above the thread) and go directly to the back side to start the eye on the other side. Make sure to bring the needle out at the same height and repeat the instructions you followed to make this first eye. 

Once you have finished making the other eye, bring the needle out at the same point where the starting thread is, cut the thread leaving about 5 cm, and make a couple of knots with this thread and the initial thread. Cut the excess thread as close to the knot as possible, and use the needle head to tuck the knot inside the moon.
 

With pink thread, apply the blush; you can make it as long and high as you like. I placed it with 1 stitch in length, using the end of the eye and the lower eyelash as a reference.

To secure the blush thread, I will use the same technique of making a knot and hiding it. Below, I'm including a sequence of photos showing how I did it.

Pass the needle where the blush will go, and with the end of the thread and the thread that is on the needle, make two tight knots.

Cut the excess thread close to the knot (do not cut the thread on the needle) and pass the needle through the first point where you started. Bring the needle out at the same point where you initially pulled it through and gently pull to move the knot towards the hole of the first point. Using the needle head, tuck the knot inside the moon. 

Pass the needle through the first point again, and this time bring the needle out on the other side where you will place the blush.

Make two passes as we did before to make it more filled in, and when finished, make a knot to secure it. I make the knot on the same pink thread.

Hide the knot using the same technique we have used so far. Pass the needle through the point and gently pull to hide the knot inside. You can bring the needle out anywhere on the moon and then cut the excess thread. 


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